Monday, October 6, 2014

A Vacation, Part II: Venice





"The Vegas of Europe"


After a bit of a scramble from Paris to Beauveaux to the check-in for our RyanAir flight, we landed in Treviso, Italy with rousing fanfare. Literally, fanfare. Applause. Trumpets. Mariachi music. The woman seated next to us lifted her gaze Heaven-ward, kissed her rosary and made the sign of the cross. "Are we excited to arrive or excited we, ya know, didn't not arrive?" I quickly scanned the cabin for a "We've been accident free for             days," plaque. Anxiously ticking away the list of multiple take-offs and landings (and all the in between jazz that happens 30,000 ft. up in the air) we had left in our trip.

Thankfully, we switched up our mode of transportation to something more down to earth. Down to earth's water level, that is. Gondala, water bus, yacht, cruise ship, and ferry, oh my, welcome to Venice, the "Queen of the Adriatic," "City of Water," "City of Masks," "City of Bridges," "City of Canals," "City of George 'It's About Time' Clooney's Wedding" and "The Floating City," although by the looks of the Piazzo San Marco,  I think we were most definitely on the verge of sinking every afternoon. Damn tourists. Oh, tourists. Oh the approximately 47.7 million tourists that anchor in every year, in a city of 60,000! For the record, I'm a tourist but I'm not a tourist. Venice is beautiful, but if I were a resident trying to ride the vaporetto to run errands or get to work on a daily basis and I saw one more selfie stick or umbrella or large meandering group of people overpaying for Murano glass made in China and serenaded tours of the Grand Canal, I would probably throw myself in front of a very swiftly moving gondola.

With some careful research and consistent prayers lifted to the almighty TripAdviser, we carved out a pleasant visit in the maze that is, Venezia.
The magic of Italian gelato, pizza, pasta, and spirits quickly made up for any tourism claustrophobia.
If I were a resident, I'd probably survive on a diet of cappuccino, chocolate croissant, and bellini. Then I'd proceed to get old and wobbly and angrily wave my cane at the Carnival ships blocking my house.

Ahhh, the sailing life for me.

...

Stay: Giudecca Island/Haven Hostel
Save: Buy a 48/72 hr. water bus pass!
See: You'll easily zoom by a majority of the major landmarks as you walk (get lost) through the streets of Venice. Escape the crowds and jump over to Lido for a day at the beach, Murano for the real-deal world-famous glass, and Burano for colorful neighborhoods.
Savor: Best-Practically-Portland coffee at Torrefazione Marchi/Hole-in-the-wall hipster pasta at Dal Moro's Fresh Pasta to Go/Kinder Sorpresa eggs at the supermarkets. You'll find the best selection in Italy, where they originated! Take some home to your kids...or don't...cough*illegal*what?*

xoxo

{Bon Bon}


Monday, September 29, 2014

A Vacation, Act I: Paris in September




"Paris is the New York City of Europe" -says me


Early on, we had determined to fly into Paris as the kick-off to our European holiday. And if that ain't a bougie statement...
Onward to the CDG it was! And pronto, before the Kardashians invade!

The Oregon to France trek isn't all that bad. Daniel and I have both flown to Africa on separate occasions, and if that flight haul doesn't put hair on your chest...
With approximately twelve hours in the friendly skies toward the City of Lights, you have precisely enough time to enjoy any and all beverage services, two meals, one snack, several bathroom breaks, a 30 minute cat nap, eight prayers during turbulence over London, and four movies. Landed.

Step out of the metro and breathe that fresh, city...ozone layer. Yes. Let me begin with this. Paris stinks. In a totally stereotypical Pepe Le Pew sort of way. I was instantly enveloped by a cocktail aroma of perfume and smoke whenever anyone walked past me. Anyone. A three year old on a scooter whizzed by and I'm almost positive I smelled a faint hint of Thierry Mugler. My nose is used to some reeeeeeeeeel good Pacific Northwest air and in America you mainly see someone smoking, gosh, I don't even know, in their car, maybe? Behind a building, hidden in the bushes of shame and lung cancer, while on their lunch break? Towards the end of our time in Paris, (and Europe in general) after witnessing countless 102 year old men and women seemingly thriving on a diet of red wine and cigarette butts, I finally came to the conclusion: It must be the walking? Or the fromage? Or the chocolate croissants? Maybe they take their holiday in Portland, Oregon and fill up the internal reserve oxygen supply? These people are fabulous and fiesty and all La Vie en Rose and c'est le vie. I just might want to be like them when I grow up. Minus the smoking. Unless they invent a macaron flavored cigar. Ok ok, so of course we didn't travel across the pond for an anthropology study.

(As parents of a toddler, we obviously went to eat, drink, be merry, sleep past 7AM, and enjoy a Paw Patrol theme song free zone!)

We wined on wine and we dined on the four main food groups: chocolate, bread, cheese, and meat. We lived in a teeny Parisian apartment in the clouds. We walked past the Arc de Triomphe on our way home every day like it ain't no thang. We asked, "Parlez vous anglais?" so many times, as proper Americans should do. We marveled at the (cheap!) price of Bonne Maman jam at the supermarket, (and also failed at smuggling some into Italy, as improper Americans would do). We saw a whole bunch of naked statues, naked paintings, and naked photos, as one typically does in an art museum, and tried not to laugh too hard because we are actually 13 years old. We searched high and low for a (free) bathroom to use at 10PM, and finally found the free-est most grossest bathroom right by the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower, the smell of perfumed urine wafted through the air as an accordion wheezed La Valse d'Amélie. 

Paris IS for lovers.



xoxo

{Bon Bon}







Thursday, September 25, 2014

How to Vacation Without Kids





When your husband says, "Let's go to Europe for nineteen days!" you'll probably find yourself jumping on the couch all Tom Cruise excited-in-love like and hastily dump "Paris Street Style: A Guide to Effortless Chic" in your Amazon cart. "Should I make room in my backpack for a pair of heels?" "Striped shirt in Venice? Too cliche?"

These are the questions that will normally haunt you for the next six months as you prep for a trot around the globe.

When you become a mother, going on a trip to Europe for NINE.FREAKING.TEEN months, I mean, days, becomes...something else.

It becomes you strapping yourself into a germ-ridden tin can in the sky, hurtling thousands of miles away to places full of tiny adorable European children (on scooters!) that will remind you daily of the gaping Grand Canyon chasm in your soul that can only be filled by one tiny adorable 1/4 Korean-1/2 Ukrainian child who wobbles around the house on his blue scooter while saying, "Watch me!" before he crashes into the dining table.

I'll be honest. We almost didn't go.
Crepes in Paris, gelato in Italy, seafood risotto in Croatia, schnitzel in Germany, and goulash in Czech Republic almost didn't happen.

I've been a stay-at-home mom for the past (almost) three years. I'm with our child 89% of the time. He wonders what happened to me when I have been in the bathroom longer than 35 seconds, (Usually, I'm secretly eating a spoonful of TJ's cookie butter. As you can tell, food is my love language).

The back-and-forth inner turmoil of being equal parts realist and dreamer (fist bump to my fellow Pisces) was making me go all kinds of crazy.
My hard-working-needs-a-proper-vacation husband asked, "Well, what should we do for three weeks then? I have the time off...*sigh*"
To which I weakly replied, "Uhhhh, staycation?"

If looks could kill.


So, I put on my big girl pants and I made a decision, of course, after watching "Midnight in Paris," "Ratatouille," "Amelie," and the clincher, "Passport to Paris." All best decisions are made with guidance from St. Mary Kate and Ashley, you know.

"Buy.The.Tickets. And hurry before the wine wears off!"

I've never seen someone navigate the United Airlines website so fast, (plus, thirty other tabs and a master spreadsheet of the already planned trip, because, engineer husband, and, he knew. He knew)


We did it! We had fun! We aren't scarred for life!

Here are a few key tips in making the transition from dream trip to reality.

...



1). {Practice Makes Perfect} In the three years of parenthood, we have consistently done date nights from the very beginning. Sprinkle in several girls trips for me, guys or work-related trips for Daniel, plus a few weekend getaways together, and Josiah has watched us go and come back, countless times. It's hard to describe the concept of time to a toddler, but we always try to differientate the different types of "going away."

Example: Date night can be an easy, last minute kind of thing, "We'll be gone for a little bit. See you when you wake up in the morning!" A longer vacation needs some more mental prep, (we began slightly mentioning a trip about two weeks in advance). A few days before we left, "We'll get on a plane at the airport and fly to Europe!" "You're gonna stay with grandma and grandpa and go on adventures!" "Come back and pick us up at the airport!" You can be "basically specific" at this age. Give the general details in a pleasant "no big deal" kind of way, don't get too emotional or worked up.  Also, have them try and go to the airport when you leave and arrive, if possible! The actual process of "watching" you get on the plane and then walk out of the plane gives that stable realness factor for them. (Josiah talked about picking me up from the airport after my NYC trip for months after!)

2). {Trust Your People} Without our family and friends, we couldn't have done this! We left Josiah in the care of a few of his most favorite people on this world. People who gave him treats and took him to the zoo and played Legos and kissed his owies. He was living the life! (I still remember when my grandparents took care of me: trips to Toys R Us, new clothes, MCDONALDS! and they just so happened to own several TCBY stores, so, as much yogurt and ice cream as I could eat). Your child quite possibly, could have more fun than you. ha.

3). {Plan and Prepare} Cross all those t's and dot those i's (especially especially especially if you are going overseas). Leave house keys, medical release notes, medicines, special blankets or stuffed animals, general schedule/information in an easy to find place, etc. I also put together care boxes for each set of grandparents, including diapers and wipes, extra toys, snacks, and a little surprise present for Josiah to open for each day we were gone.

4). {Communicate} Thankfully we live in an age of Skype, FaceTime, and Email. Make sure you can coordinate those chats in advance with your time differences. (We found that any face-to-face communication towards the 2nd half of our trip was becoming harder for Josiah, so the "out of sight out of mind" approach worked better. Daily emails with the grandparents worked well for everyone!)

5). {Let Go and Let God} Meaning, after all the planning and preparing and worrying, just GO! Don't feel guilty or anxious. Have fun, enjoy quality alone time with your S.O. and don't forget to pick up some souvenirs for your little one!



P.S. Don't pack heels. For the love of everything holy, don't pack heels. We witnessed so many women hobbling around like wounded horses on the cobblestones of Europe. Free entertainment for us...

xoxo

{Bon Bon}





Monday, August 25, 2014

The New Baby List

check out Iviebaby textiles {here}

As of right now, 14 women, !FOURTEEN!, within my friend and family circles are pregnant. It's been almost three years since my newborn was a new baby, and, well, let's not dwell on that fact too long. Needless to say, this post has been gathering dust in my blog schedule. So here you go, all you thriving and jiving mamas-to-be out there, anxiously putting together your registries and wondering what the heck you've gotten yourself into. Don't worry. This is gonna be good. And extremely cute.




Steve Madden/F21/F21

These are the bags I have used from birth-toddler. Big. Roomy. Pockets. Easy-wipe materials. My son (Josiah) was exclusively breastfed for the first year, wasn't a major spit-up/blow-out guy, and hardly ever took a bottle or pacifier. He really didn't need a lot of stuff when we were out and about, thus I never needed a "traditional" diaper bag. I have always been a big purse-carrying kind of gal, so these styles worked well for me. Diaper bags are all about personal preference: Tote, Messenger, or Backpack? Traditional or Transitional? Paisley floral or canvas unisex? The options and price points are endless. 

Check out {Pottery Barn} {timi & leslie} and {Twelvelittle} for some other fashionable and functional options. 







Changing Clutch: You'd be surprised how many places inconveniently do not have a changing area in the bathroom. UGH. You'll find yourself switching diapers on the floor, ground, car seat, and trunk. This clutch unfolds to a pad + room for extra wipes and diapers. Easily fits in your diaper bag. 

Solly Baby Wrap: Favorite baby carrier, hands down. Lightweight and comfy. Your baby will snuggle up in this and snooze away while you do things! With both hands free! Like a normal person! Laugh all you want at that sentence now...
(Note: {the Bull and the Bee} carries a select few, for all you local Portland mamas)

Chewbeads Necklace: Kids like to chew on everything. This is one of the best dual-purpose pieces of jewelry out there. Pretty for mom, and toy for baby. 

Sophie la girafe: (Again with the chewing) It's a glorified dog chew toy with hoity-toity French roots. Your husband will laugh at you, then half-way into parenthood he'll break out in a cold sweat if it is ever misplaced, because, this thing is awesome. Josiah's eyes still light up whenever he sees her. Oooh la la.

FuzziBunz One Size Cloth Diapers: Cloth diapers. You either love 'em or you hate 'em. We happen to be a family that fell into the love category. These were awesome! Found an awesome deal on {Zulily} Adjusted from newborn-toddler, super comfy, held everything in, etc. While on vacation or out of town, you best believe we bought a pack of disposables though. VACATION! The LUVS brand has always worked for us + Costco wipes + occasional homemade baby wipes {here}

Bebe Au Lait Nursing Cover: Perfect for those around-the-clock in-public feedings. (You can also just use a blanket/your Solly wrap/or nothing, if you feel so inclined. I liked this cover because it was discreet enough for any social situation and half the time I would forget to wear nursing-friendly attire, so I'd basically have to yank down my entire outfit in the middle of Starbucks. Nursing cover saved the day).






Baby Moccs: Because, cute. The end. (Get a pair of these, plus a boatload of tiny socks and you're set until they start walking…and growing out of the new shoes you just bought) I find our moccasins via small independent sellers on Etsy. Sometimes {Sweet Jayne Boutique} here in Portland will carry similar affordable styles.

H&M Scarf Bibs: These are an adorable accessory that will also protect their outfit from spit up and spit bubbles and did I mention, spit?

White Onesies: Short-sleeve and Long-sleeve. Your basic baby outfit can be a onesie and some cute leggings. Done. You can splurge on all those other wardrobe staples: sweaters, coats, etc. (White makes it super easy to wash and bleach those daily stains out. So many stains!).

Baltic Amber Necklace: Ok, this is totally one of those "trendy" items that may or may not work. Put it in your "wait and see" list of things to buy. Josiah came out of the womb teething, and by 12 months had a full mouth of teeth.

(Note: We buy most of our clothing from H&M, Target, Old Navy, Gap, and Zara. Higher end, wait for those sales! Try and stock up for the next months, seasons, or year in advance. Most of Josiah's clothes will run big on him for a few weeks. Bigger size, longer wear time. Also, newborn size clothes. Ha. He was out of those within a week. They literally grow like weeds at that age. I would put an outfit worn only once, into the wash and by the time it was dried, folded, and back in his dresser, he was too big for it!)




{Josiah was exclusively breastfed/eating baby foods until 15 months. He did not like bottles, so we only needed to keep a couple around "just in case."}

Blender: Literally, any ol' blender will do. Doesn't have to be one of those fancy baby prep ones. I usually made large batches of homemade baby food a few times per month. Super easy, affordable, and healthy! {"Super Baby Food" and Wholesome Baby Food are great resources} If we were out of town, {Earth's Best} baby food was our go-to brand. 

Munchkin Snack Catcher: Perfect for holding those tiny puffs and baby treats on the go. 

Pocket Bibs: These are great for mealtimes! Easy to clean! Catches (most) of the spilled food. I always kept one of these in my purse too. Some people are suuuuuuper picky with bibs (and pacifiers, and bottles, and everything baby related), like the world is going to end until they find THE perfect one. Meh. I'm "that" mom, but I'm not "THAT" mom. To me, a bib is a bib is a bib. 

Reusable Baby Food Pouch: Great for storing those homemade baby purees and toddler smoothies! 

Ikea Kids Tableware: Inexpensive and durable. An entire set has lasted us 3 years! 

Munchkin Fresh Food Feeder: This was the best way to introduce new solid foods, especially fruit, without any fear of choking! Also, fantastic as a soothing "teether" treat, (use frozen fruit). 

(Note: During the early stages of introducing solid foods, I would place Josiah in his {Bumbo} and give him a few bites of something. Also, the {Fisher-Price Healthy Care Deluxe Booster Seat} was great for travel or if friends with babies came for a visit)




Baby Washcloths: (You'll probably receive plenty of these at your baby shower) We use these all the time in the bathtub and at the dinner table for messy mouths. 

California Baby Calendula Cream: Josiah had cradle cap, sensitive skin, and eczema. Triple whammy. In particular, one unfortunate looking week with some baby acne. He did not look cute. I read great reviews about this, used it on his cheeks after a bath and literally the next day, his awkward "teenage" stage was done. Acne gone, (I feel like this is turning into a Proactiv commercial). Calendula is extremely soothing for all sorts of rashes and reactions. A++ product. 


The First Years Sure Comfort Bath Tub: Transitions from newborn to toddler. Inexpensive and durable. The comfortable mesh "hammock" easily removes once your baby gets bigger.

California Baby Bubble Bath: (Eucalyptus Ease & Calming French Lavender are amazing!) I definitely steal this bubble bath for myself.  

California Baby Super Sensitive Shampoo & Body Wash: As you can tell, we LOVE California Baby products. We are a super duper sensitive skin family, so all-natural and organic is what we have to do. {Aveeno} and {The Honest Co.} are great options too, but they don't smell as incredible or long-lasting as the C.B. line.

Hooded Bath Towels: Warm and cozy. I want one for myself! 




Little Remedies for Noses Saline Spray: Clears out all that mucous-y congestion stuff in those poor sniffly little noses. Snoring babies are kind of adorable though.

Crane Cool Mist Humidifier: Our house gets super dry during the winter, so we usually run this at night. Definitely when a cough is going around. 

Boogie Wipes: When kids get sick, their nose turns into a leaking faucet! These wipes smell so good and are magically moisturizing even after the 30th nostril wipe. No raw skin! (We usually rip each wipe in half because they are so large too). 

Mommy's Bliss Gripe Water: Josiah would get gassy every once in awhile, and when it first happens you'll think, "Oh, no! And so the Colic begins!" Gassy infants are kind of intimidating. It will usually happen randomly, in the evening, and nothing will seem to make them feel better. This was our holy grail. A few drops of this and cranky baby was back to normal. 

Tiny Teeth Soft Finger Toothbrush: Introduces teeth cleaning early on, massages gums, etc. 

Maty's All Natural Baby Chest Rub: Helps soothe during those congested nights. 

NoseFrida the Snot Sucker: Don't be grossed out by this thing! Those crazy Swedes. This is a nasal aspirator that actually works AND your baby won't scream in terror during the daily, yes, daily booger vacuum session that you'll need to do. Josiah hated, hated, loathed entirely that hospital bulb sucker they give you. The first time we used a NoseFrida on him, he smiled! He probably was laughing at how stupid we looked, literally sucking out his snot with a straw. It's weird, but it works. 

Hyland's Teething Tablets: We entered the teething stage right away, and usually two teeth at a time. Woof. These did the trick, maybe taking the edge off the pain? That sounds Breaking Bad-ish. Irritable fussy Jekyll baby would turn into normal happy Hyde baby again. Every time. Hyland's has re-formulated the tablets as of 2011, (remember, homeopathic). (I never felt comfortable using any of the benzocaine teething gels that "numb" the gums)

Braun Forehead Thermometer: Always nice to have a thermometer, whatever kind, in the medicine cabinet. I like this one because it's fast, accurate, and less invasive, (easy to swipe across the forehead of a fussy or sleeping baby). 




Boppy: I bought my boppy pillow and cover at a garage sale for $2, however, I would've put this on my registry or bought full price. It's great for post-partum use, (your butt will probably be, ahem, quite sore and this is so comfy to sit on!), for nursing, (especially early on when you're trying to get the hang of things and need all the extra support you can get), and for clingy babies that need to be held all.day.long. I don't know if it's a boy thing or what, but Josiah did not want to leave the warmth of my arms for a looooong time. I'd put this on our King size bed, snuggle him in the center, and he'd chill out or fall asleep while I folded laundry, got dressed for the day, etc. 

Ikea HEMNES Dresser: Before we bought our house, we lived in a 1 bedroom apartment with a newborn. Not a ton of space. This dresser fit all of his clothing, diapers, burp cloths, and extra supplies. The drawers are nice and deep! Also, put a changing pad on the top, voila, instant changing table. Then we easily transitioned it into his "big boy" bedroom. 

Organic Cotton Sleep Gowns: So convenient early on during those numerous middle of the night diaper changes! Trust me, you don't want to be fumbling around with buttons and zippers at 3am. 

Moses Basket with Stand: Josiah was not particularly fond of his full-size crib for awhile. It was too large and open for someone that had been nestled in a womb for nine months. This is perfect for keeping them cozy near your bed during those early months, especially for easy access during the nighttime nursing sessions.  

Burp Cloths: (You'll probably receive a bunch of these during your baby shower or at your birthing center) Classic. Josiah wasn't a spitter-upper, but I've held many a baby who is. It can be like Niagara Falls. Overall, babies are mini mess-makers. These are super soft and soak up anything! 

WubbaNub Pacifier: This helps prevent the dreaded pacifier pop-out routine. (I wished my baby would be soothed by a normal pacifier, but he would suck on it for a few seconds at a time and out it would pop or fall asleep with one in his mouth and wake up the moment it fell out) No more lost pacifiers with the WubbaNub!

(Note: We didn't use any extra blankets, pillows, or stuffed animals in the crib for awhile. Babies will stay warm bundled up in their pajamas, and all those filler items can wait until they get older (less likely chance of sleep time breathing problems). Josiah eventually began sleeping with an orange tshirt that smelled like Daddy, and that quickly become his comfort "lovie," now, affectionately named, "DeeDee." 




1) Taggies Baby Buggy Ball: We loved Taggies blankets and other products as well. This ball is about ten toys in one!
2) BRIO Stacking Clown: This was a 1st birthday gift from my Aunt, and Josiah still loves playing with it! Classic wooden toy that will last for years and years. 
3) Tupperware: Honestly, for the first year, most babies could care less about "toys." They will chew, play, and discover everything else. Plastic containers, boxes, shoes, and keys. Kids and Dogs, kind of the same thing. 
4) Bright Starts Tug Tunes: We rotated a few hanging toys on the carseat during the weekly excursions and errand runs. Babies like to look around and hopefully see something that they can focus on! Teething rings, a mirror, and this musical monkey were big hits. 
5) Books Books and more Books! Babies love books. Read to them as much as you can, from the very beginning! These {BabyLit} board books are adorable keepsake pieces for you and your baby bookworm. BOOKS! 
6) Ambi Rattle Keys: (+Ambi Sunflower Rattle) Simple, quality made toys. The bright colors and rattling noise will (sometimes) distract them from grabbing your gross metal keys. 


Yes. These next three items are large, expensive, and unattractive. Congratulations! You're a parent! 
(Note: We borrowed #7 and bought #8 & #9 for suuuuuper cheap at a garage sale/Craigslist)

7) Fisher-Price Rainforest Friends Deluxe Cradle n' Swing: This.Was.A.Lifesaver. Josiah would hang out in this and fall asleep most mornings (afternoons or evenings) while I took a shower or cooked dinner or whenever I needed a break from holding him. Keeps them snuggled and soothed. 
8) Baby Einstein Musical Motion Activity Jumper: We also purchased a {Johnny Jump Up}, but Josiah obsessed with this activity jumper. Literally spent hours and hours and hours in this thing. If we went on vacation or to the Grandparents' house, so did the jumper! 
9) Fisher-Price Laugh and Learn Musical Table: Another great next-stage FP toy. Before Josiah could walk, he would crawl over to this table, pull himself up, and stand there pressing all the musical buttons. He consistently played with this every day for a long time! Like most of these sturdy toys, onward it goes to the next kid in the family. 






The options and price points are endless with these items! Since your baby will be spending a good portion of their little lives in these, I would say buy (or register) as high quality as you can. 



Highchair (We used the Ikea ANTILOP high chair. It's inexpensive, sturdy, easily unfolds for traveling, and doesn't take up too much space) 
 Rocking Chair/Glider (Since our apartment didn't have room for another piece of furniture, we sat in our living room club-style rocking chair. Otherwise, our bed was the best place for nighttime nursing and snuggles)
 Breast Pump (I'd say splurge on this if you plan on working outside of the home and need to continually build up a good supply of milk in the freezer! I would stock up extra milk, but Josiah barely ever took a bottle when I was (rarely) gone. My inexpensive Evenflo pump worked great for all those nights I scrambled home from date night, about to burst. 
Baby Monitor (Again, small apartment, didn't need a baby monitor. We picked up a cheap one at a garage sale to take with us on vacations).  


...

Oh baby! I think that about wraps this list up. If you've made it to the end, high five and good luck! Hope this wasn't too overwhelming. Remember, that first year can truly be simple. As simple as you want it to be. (The toddler stage is an entirely different story, meant for another post)
In the end, most of this stuff doesn't really matter. Your baby needs love, security, and lots and lots of kisses.  Priceless. 


xoxo

{Bon Bon}












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